By Dar Williams
Performing Songwriter Magazine
November 1998
Performer to Performer
Things had to change. On one doctor visit, I noticed that my blood
pressure had risen. Six months later it rose again. And then again.
I had a short fuse. I believed that all ill-tempered airline
attendants, muddled sound people, and lighting designers who bathed me
in green light were in league against me. I never had enough time.
I was not traveling with ease.
Look at me today! I’m gliding through the airport with my wheeled
luggage, well compartmentalized purse, and all needed documents ready for
presentation. The flight was delayed, the rental car wasn’t ready,
and the woman behind the counter has responded to this problem with a quick
and hateful smile, explaining that there is no sign whatsoever of my reservation.
No worry! I’ve flown in the night before the gig, not the day of, I peed
before I got to baggage claim, and I have a book. “Take your time,” I say.
Ten minutes later she finds my reservation…under “Williams.” I smile with
compassion.
I want to share my best road tips with you, because we all meet somewhere
on that big road, so the happier you are, chances are the happier I’ll
be. Whether you take the road less traveled or the L.A. freeway,
knowing where your pen and your rental agreement are will improve the quality
of life on both ends of the journey. And that really does make all
the difference.
Le Car
Let’s start with the car. It’s good to feel
a sense of kinship with your car. Before I got a diesel (I highly
recommend Volkswagen TDIs; diesels that give you more mileage, less maintenance,
and safer emissions), I put 90-octane gas in my tank. Apparently
over 90 doesn’t make much difference. Higher octane pays for itself in
higher mileage and a happier car. Correct tire pressure also increases
mileage and confidence.
Spiritual maintenance of a car is also very important.
It’s helpful to feel like you’re on the same team. I highly recommend
looking at a map before you go anywhere, even (especially!) when people
have given you “excellent” directions. When you’re supposed
to go south on I-90, it’s good to find out that it’s actually an east-west
highway before you get to the signs. This simple modus operandi can
save you hours and ulcers and that sense of “dis-ease” with your car.
Three simple things will also reduce stress: a flashlight,
an atlas, and an auto club membership, which pays for itself in the first
towing or in three car rental discounts. And a parking Buddha.
And Northampton massage therapist Jeannie Dodge recommends three tennis
balls in an old sock for self-massaging your upper back. And I suggest
a designated place where you keep extra toiletry items, like tissues, soap,
tampons, and a brush. Okay, that’s more than three things.
Another important tip: keep all your food in one
place. My friend Anne Weiss channeled the Great Squirrel and found all
the food I’d scattered over my car. A half eaten bag of popcorn,
pita bread, tomatoes, honey, a bottle of wine and chocolate. Keeping
all your food in one place gives you the sense of options, allows you to
find food in the dark, and saves you from having that really unprofessional
feeling Mystery Car Smell.
And I will give you this blanket advice: only buy
as many bananas as you will eat within the hour.
Rental Cars
As for rental cars, Hertz is one of the only companies that will rent
a one-way car without a penalty. However, you have to rent a midsize
or bigger. I’ve found that I can pay the midsize rate, but get a
smaller car. People think I’m crazy for paying more for less, but
smaller cars will get you 10-20 more miles per gallon of gas, and if you
don’t need the midsize, why waste the money or fuel? If they hassle
you at the rental place, just say what I say, “It’s my gift to the Great
Mother Earth.” Calms them right down.
Another great rental tip is to get a preferred
customer club membership. They’re awesome. It’s so luxurious to step
right into your car and drive away instead of waiting (for the fifth time
that day) in a long line. They’re about fifty or sixty dollars
annually (though for the last two years I’ve gotten mine free, because
I’m such a loyal capitalist pig), and they’re worth it.
Airplanes
On to planes; toxic, dehydrating, impersonal vessels of modern
convenience. If you don’t think it looks too goofy, put a wet washcloth
over your face. Drink a ton of water. Definitely take your
own. I rarely eat airplane food anymore. I’m really not a food snob,
but I’ve finally faced the reality that airplane food makes me feel sick.
I’d rather have two hot pretzels, a bag of potato chips and a chocolate
bar from the airport.
I told you I wasn’t a food snob. If you get
nauseated on flights, definitely make sure you have something in your stomach
besides your fear of flying. I’d even take airplane food over an
empty stomach.
Call me a pagan princess, but I’m overwhelmed
by “Air Culture.” Racks and racks of magazines about people I didn’t think
I cared about. All that “news” in the high hung TV’s; informing us
of the latest clothes that look good on anorexic people and about train
crashes. In-flight magazines. Skymall magazines. Billboards
on the wall. Gift shops. USA TODAY everywhere. It makes me feel like
a drone at the heart of a corporate hive. Forewarned is forearmed.
John Irving, Tony Hillerman, Jane Austin, and the Bronte sisters can provide
good antidotes. They’re not trying to sell you anything (relatively
speaking). Also, don’t be embarrassed to walk barefoot outside on the day
you travel, weather permitting, before or after a flight to get grounded.
Of course, your impersonal motel may not have any grass in sight, but any
simple connection with the earth can help with a sense of air displacement.
Luggage
As for luggage, wheeled luggage is a must for the frequent traveler. My whole band got Eagle Creek luggage that can become a backpack in a pinch and has a detachable knapsack on the front. It rules. I wanted to get an endorsement but was afraid I’d have to pose with it on a CD cover. Another luggage thing: your friggin’ instrument. Even with new restrictions, I’ve been able to take my guitar on most planes. When checking attendants shake their heads, I say, “You know, I checked my guitar with American Airlines, once, and they lost it, once.” That said, gate checking is different from counter checking, and I’ve never heard of a person losing a guitar on a gate check.
Trains
Trains are the least subsidized, most fuel efficient way to travel. Amtrak bends over backwards to offer interesting travel packages, like tickets that let you stop at three places along the way. You definitely need to take your own food, but otherwise, trains are super comfortable and less dehumanizing than air culture, in my opinion. Since many promoters in singer-songwriter-dom are supportive of alternative economies and underdogs, I’ll bet they can find someone to pick you up at the station.
Hotels, Motels, and staying with Friends
And now, welcome to your motel, The Desert Fountain of Fluorescence.
Whether you’re moteling or hoteling, I have some thoughts. First:
don’t look in the mirror when you first get in your room. Second, when
you check out, I have a suggestion that is kind to your room cleaner and
to you: clean up the room; put the TV remote back on the TV, put the phone
book back, put all your towels in one pile and pull the comforter off the
bed. It’s a great way to idiot check. More often than not,
there’s a pair of earrings under that pile of tissues you weren’t going
to throw away. Also, please leave a tip for the person cleaning your room.
I try to leave a couple of dollars for every day I’ve spent. This
compensates for my asking for “No Housekeeping” when I’m staying more than
one day. Housekeeping uses a lot of detergents and water, which seems like
a waste. I don’t clean my house like that!
Late at night, there are lots of things to do when
you’re alone in your room, postgig, even though it’s too late to call a
friend to talk about the guy who fell asleep in the front row. If
you get online, definitely take your own phone card. Sometimes it’s impossible
to extricate the phone line from the phone. That effort alone will raise
your blood pressure. A lot of people take little candles on the road.
If you want these for ambient songwriting light, Aveda and the Body Shop
make them with lids, which I prefer.
If you watch TV, I recommend the Animal Planet
channel, especially if your ego needs mending. There’s nothing like watching
a family of hippos, not to mention the kind-hearted, safari-hair naturalists,
to remind you that the world is a wondrous place and you are a part of
it. I have a list of activities to do while I watch TV, such as emptying
my tote bag and purse and organizing them. It’s so helpful!
Receipts, garbage, napkins, addresses, money…it’s great to deal with this
stuff before you get home.
My favorite activity, however is to curl up
in a little nightie and call…American Airlines. Forget with they
say about artists being flaky. Get your frequent flyer accounts set up
now!! If you want to hear another human voice at the end of a long
night, kill two birds with one stone and get your accounts going.
You can dump all sorts of miles into them; rental car, credit card, phone,
and some hotels. My latest favorite mile builder is a prepaid phone
card through AT&T. If you call 1(800) PREPAID and ask for the
United Airlines AT&T card, you’ll get 25 cents a minute with no surcharge
per call. Otherwise you get an MCI at 35 cents a minute. Setting
up frequent flyer accounts makes good use of late night boredom and angst,
as well as our ancient hunting and gathering instincts.
Or perhaps you’re staying with friends. I
used to plan my tours around friends and family, so if the gigs were bad,
I’d at least get to meet the roommate from hell or see the new significant
other (sometimes also from hell). A few suggestions: one, let your loved
ones know that the more greens they feed you, the better you’ll be. A big
salad, steamed kale, whatever. Make your friends your allies in your
well being.
In return, I recommend taking utilitarian gifts,
such as a decorative pyramid of recycled toilet paper, or a festive assortment
of bulk pasta. It will endear you to a household if you take gifts for
the whole house. And finally, watch the bedtime thing. Guests
are a novelty. If four friends in a row want to keep you up until
three a.m., it will take its toll on you, not them.
Finding The Right Vibe
There is one determining factor that outweighs
all the helpful hints for healthy traveling. It has to do with that
one dated word with eternal significance: vibe. Finding the vibe
of a city can foster a sense of meaning and community for a traveler.
If you want to raise your long term standard of well-being on the road,
I would keep careful notes or mental tabs in this intangible quality of
being.
Four years ago, I compiled a book called The
Tofu Tollbooth, a directory of natural food stores. I thought
I was just trying to find politically correct chocolate, organic apples,
and acidopholus. I realize now that the book was important because
it helped me to find that elusive thing – call it cultural resonance, kindness,
awareness, vibe – that every city has once you’ve penetrated the three
or four layers of standardized consumer culture that’s geared to outsiders.
Take Indianapolis, for example. I found
the natural food store there in the part of town called Broad Ripple. Down
the street was a theatre where Laura Love was playing. A block beyond
that was a great Indian restaurant with a cheap lunch buffet. At
the natural food store, the staff told me about other places in their neighborhood,
such as the wonderful Three Sisters bakery and restaurant, where the service
was better than friendly. It was familiar. That’s what
I love about finding the Broad Ripple of any city. These places give
me the sense that things are done with care, and that my shopping and eating
dollars are helping to build communities, not strip them.
Natural food stores aren’t the only indicator
of a traveler-friendly neighborhood. At the heart of the southwest are
in Portland, Oregon, there is a legendary indie record store, Music Millennium,
a few blocks away from the huge used and new bookstore, Powell books last
week. It’s a must-experience vibe.
In Closing
As travelers, we weather hostility, cultural
dissonance, bad coffee, and worse directions. We see remarkable acts of
community in the places we perform, only to leave at 6 a.m. the next morning.
We miss our homes. Thus, a corollary to finding the vibe of a place
is to know that it’s hard out there.
Yeah, yeah, it’s vital that we get out and explore
the museums, neighborhoods and wilderness of this country.
It’s equally necessary to hole ourselves up a in dreary hotel rooms and
make sixteen calls in a row from time to time. We are allowed to respect
our needs, as un-exotic and tedious as they may be.
As a performing songwriter I know so many
little disjointed things about surviving on the road. And so do you.
How we travel will affect every other aspect of our lives.
Someday, I hope to be that zen-voyager, whose journey is her life and vice-versa.
She finds a flat rock in a city park up which to make her own nori rolls,
folding blades of grass into original origami crane as an impromptu centerpiece.
That’s not me…yet. For now, I know that baby
carrots will keep for days, often without refrigeration and unfrosted Pop
Tarts aren’t a bad option at 1 a.m. I accept the nurse’s comment
that my blood pressure is so low, and I’m thankful that I still love my
job, as well as my friend at the Hertz counter.
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